As promised after the post “Mini-revolution at Château_Figeac”, we’re changing banks today and heading to Médoc, with one of the most illustrious Bordeaux wines, Mr. Château Margaux. First difference with Saint-Emilion is that they don’t have to fight any longer for ranking, as there is no attempt whatsoever to revisit the one made in 1855… Quite convenient isn’t it?
Nonetheless, Château Margaux challenges the common remark made about First Growths, being that they are understandably satisfied, sitting on their ranking asset, without having to put much effort, adapt to new expectations, or even maintain their own high standard.
Probably taking some inspiration from the success of Château Pontet-Canet, Château Margaux has been recently piloting biodynamics on its property. On a rather ironic or skeptical note, its managing director Paul Pontallier says: “I have a hard time believing that the voodoo will bring anything extra to the wines as I’m not a religious person, but the only way to find out is to try.” But also: “I find it all a bit weird and it makes me laugh sometimes.” Voodoo? Weird? Laugh? Not sure he will make many friends in the cult… But, at least, they’re slowly moving to organic, with only one spray in 2012…
How would you feel opening up a bottle of Château Margaux, I mean the big one (not the Pavillon, even though I would be more than satisfied already…), and realizing it is not a cork closure? But a screw cap?! Well, Château Margaux is also looking into this. I’m having a hard time believing it has any future, but let’s not be dogmatic.
And finally, surfing on the fame of the 2009 vintage, Château Margaux will release this year 3,000 cases of a third wine, called “Margaux de Château Margaux 2009”. This remainder represents what could not be put into the second wine (Pavillon Rouge de Château Margaux), but it was too good to be discarded. You bet it was! Price remains to be fixed…
#YR – Yann Rousseau
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